August 1, 2024
JAKARTA – The water was tepid and clear. As a certified urbanite, I’d only seen similar panoramic views in magazines and movies. Yet as I waddled back and forth among the calming waves in a pair of snorkeling goggles and fins that were a little too big for my size 36 feet, I began to wonder if a part of me could learn to appreciate a beach vacation.
Embarking on the boat that morning, I wasn’t even sure I wanted to be included in the snorkeling activity. Partly because I’ve never done it before, and mostly because the idea of swimming in the ocean terrifies me. But, despite my apprehensions, I jumped from the boat “for the experience”.
Within the first minute, my fear dissipated to the point that I thought I could have been an island girl or a mermaid in a past life.
That’s the beauty of Belitung: The island off the eastern coast of Sumatra has the power to turn a simple city girl into an aquaphile.
Anchor’s away
Little did I know that as I was packing for my trip to Belitung, the team at activity organizer Blue Mind had been conspiring to turn this city girl into Moana over the span of four days.
On the first day, as we headed to Tukong Island, we were treated to a moving picture of the postcard views that made this place famous: a lighthouse built by the Dutch in 1882, and triassic granite boulders formed over 213 million years ago that make up just some of the 17 sites in Belitung designated by UNESCO as geosites for their uniqueness.
After a short hike, we found ourselves perched on a cliff, munching on hamburgers and otak-otak as the sun radiated the most magnificent gold and red hues before disappearing into the waves.
It wasn’t long before the sky turned dark blue, paving the way for stars to appear. In the distance, lights twinkled over a number of fishermen’s boats dotting the dark waters. The whole scene was complemented by the comfortable silence around us.
At that moment, blanketed in the calm and the shining stars above my head, the sights of Belitung won my heart.
PHOTOS: TANJUNG KELAYANG RESERVE/THE JAKARTA POST
Into Narnia
The following day, we spent even more time away from dry land. The Sheraton hotel we were staying at was strategically located near eight smaller islands, each with its own distinctive characteristics and charms.
The first stop was Pasir Island. Stepping foot on the white sand felt like entering the land of Narnia: unlocking a mysterious place no one knows about, mostly because it is only accessible for a couple of hours when the water level lowers.
Later in the day, followed by an hour of snorkeling near Lengkuas Island, I had a little taste test of fresh sea urchins. I had never eaten raw uni that is not attached to a sushi roll before, but after the first salty and fresh bite, I was not above begging the helmsman to get more.
But as we can’t survive on sea urchins alone, we headed off for lunch at Kera Island. As soon as we stepped off the boat, we were greeted by another elegant spread of mouth-watering food ready to be devoured and washed down with fresh coconuts.
If this isn’t paradise, then I don’t know what that word means.
PHOTO: THE JAKARTA POST
When I’m not on the boat or half submerged in azure waters, I retreat back to my upscale suite at the Sheraton located within the 350-hectare Tanjung Kelayang Reserve, the only five-star resort on the island. After all, I am a creature of comfort and being on land is more my style.
However, that didn’t mean that Blue Mind didn’t have more in store for me.
Our last day was spent exploring parts of the vast nature reserve, which pledged to leave 200 ha of forests untouched.
We walked along the whistle trail to plant our own tree and see some of the rarest flora in Indonesia. This includes the famous palawan mushroom tree and the ghost orchid. I did get excited at the prospect of trying some palawan mushroom, hearing whispers about its superiority to the white truffle we’ve grown accustomed to. However, there was no such luck. I promised I’d come back one day for that reason alone.
Not far from the trail is a honey farm. Crossing over a small wooden bridge to wade deeper into the forest using one of the resort’s buggy cars, we reached three wooden boxes that house hives of trigona bees and their respective queens.
I was told the honey they produce is in demand globally because of its unique blend of slightly sweet, sour and bitter taste. I took the sustainable straw made from the resam plant that they offered to taste the honey straight from the comb, and found that it was indeed as advertised.
On the short plane ride back to Jakarta, I had mixed emotions. Part of me felt a tinge of sadness over leaving this paradise, but I also felt a sense of pride. I realized that, in another life, I am an island girl breaking open sea urchins and sipping coconuts by the beach.