October 16, 2024
MANILA – Just when you think that Chele and Teri Gonzalez are resting on their laurels, they come out swinging (in a good way) with a spicy new challenger to the cheesecake cravings of Manila consumers.
Are we entering a new era of cheesecakes in the Philippine capital? Perhaps, given that Chele’s beloved traditional burnt Basque cheesecake has become iconic for the longest time and also if you consider the emergence of cheesecake challengers in Manila.
The newest contender comes out of the Chele kitchen yet again—with help from Teri, of course—and it’s a confection that will equally become a sensation. Called tarta de queso, the ultra-creamy Spanish cheesecake is made with a blend of three types of cheeses. Though Chele didn’t really disclose what he used, there are full flavors in the mix—some mild sharpness and saltiness, and a buttery creaminess that all come alive in the runny slices of decadence.
Chele Gonzalez’s cheesecake lineup: Tarta de queso (foreground) is P2,200 for the large version and behind it is the traditional burnt Basque cheesecake. PHOTO: PHILIPPINE DAILY INQUIRER
You could also say that this cheesecake showdown turns into a fun “What cheese did Chele use?” guessing game. But seriously though, that molten tweak, I feel, is what’s going to make this new tarta de queso yet another beloved addition to the eating habits of cheese and dessert aficionados.
Compared to its more traditional sibling—which has a softer, subtly smokier flavor, still creamy but jiggly texture akin to a rustic pudding, and a lovely caramelized top—the gooey tarta de queso that also comes with a thin crust is different but also still signature Chele.
The difference between the two comes down to texture and flavour. PHOTO: PHILIPPINE DAILY INQUIRER
“I wanted to make a recipe that even if you put it in the chiller and take it out for 30 minutes, you keep the same texture and flavor,” says Chele, who admits that it took a bit of trial and error to attain the tarta de queso’s final iteration.
“Normally, cheesecakes have a lot of egg and when you put them in the chiller, the protein of the egg will coagulate and it will become like a mousse and the creaminess will be lost… and I had to work with a blend of cheeses that is still creamy. So it was a process.”
After the media preview event, I put the tarta de queso in the refrigerator, took it out, and left it at room temperature for a bit to test it. And the slice I had delivered. It’s punchy, cheese-heavy, and in essence seems to “preserve the cheese flavors more.”
A couple days after, as I’m writing this piece, I remember Chele saying “We want to make people happy,” and in my mind, this approach has never been lost on him—as I oblige to his words and take another joyful slice.
Yes, I’m happy, Chele.