June 28, 2024
JAKARTA – During the Islamic Day of Sacrifice, marked by the widespread tradition of meat consumption, usually of beef or mutton, many Indonesians embrace the occasion to savor offal delicacies. This cultural festivity not only commemorates the act of sacrifice but also underscores the enduring culinary customs that influence our dietary preferences.
Jeroan is the word used to call offal from chickens, cattle and goats. Lungs, tripe, heart, skin, intestines, kidneys, liver and penis, are among the variety of animal offal products that are processed and cooked into wonderful dishes.
Among popular offal-based dishes are curry, soto (meat broth served with rice or rice cake) and oseng (a stir-fried dish with many ingredients including offal).
Indonesians also prepare offal for snacks. Intestine and lung chips are readily available as snacks.
According to research, Indonesia has 139 types of offal-based dishes spread across 23 provinces. Among them, 31 dishes have been identified in West Sumatra, 18 in Central Java and 14 in East Java.
The preference for offal stems from a long history of colonial rule, cultural and economic factors, where the level of prosperity among the populace remained low. Offal is easily obtainable and inexpensive because colonial rulers did not consume these parts in their diets. Offal was primarily consumed by lower and middle-class communities who were not part of the colonial elite.
Similar trends also emerged in religious teachings, particularly in the Javanese Hindu acculturation, where it was believed that only lower and middle-class communities consumed offal.
Chinese culture also had an influence. The arrival of the Chinese in Indonesia in the 13th century spread the belief that all parts of livestock should be utilized, introducing various dishes made from offal. As a result, offal consumption became customary among Indonesians.
Transitioning to the post-independence era, the welfare situation did not immediately improve. Indonesia’s long-standing status as a low-income country and later as a developing nation did not offer many options for the populace to alter their diets.
Meat prices remained high, resulting in low consumption. The alternative for protein fulfillment was to consume more offal, which was priced at about one-third of the cost of fresh meat.
The combination of history, culture and economic reasons led to the continued high consumption of offal and makes it difficult to change. Despite frequent warnings about the health hazards of consuming these foodstuffs, the consumption patterns persist.
Animal offal is rich in nutrients such as protein, vitamins and minerals, its consumption also poses health risks. Offal, when not prepared properly, can harbor pathogens and contaminants, leading to foodborne illnesses. Additionally, the high fat content in liver and intestines can contribute to cardiovascular issues if consumed excessively.
In confronting the realities of our dietary habits, it is imperative to consider the broader health landscape in Indonesia. According to data from the World Health Organization, the top-five causes of death in Indonesia are stroke, heart disease, diabetes mellitus, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) and cirrhosis of the liver. These diseases are often linked to lifestyle factors, including diet.
Our life expectancy, at 71.3 years, is notably lower than countries like China, where it stands at 85.8 years. While various factors contribute to this disparity, including healthcare access and infrastructure, dietary habits undoubtedly play a significant role.
In recent years, Indonesia has witnessed a shift in dietary patterns due to urbanization, globalization and changing lifestyles. There is growing awareness of the importance of balanced nutrition and the impact of dietary choices on health.
Consequently, there has been a resurgence of interest in traditional ingredients and cooking methods, coupled with efforts to promote healthier eating habits and lifestyles. This includes reducing the consumption of foods high in saturated fats and cholesterol, such as certain types of animal offal, and incorporating more fruit, vegetables and whole grains into our diets.
Efforts to address health disparities should extend beyond dietary changes alone. Promoting physical activity, reducing tobacco use and improving access to healthcare services are equally critical components of a comprehensive approach to improving public health. While traditional dishes offer a glimpse into our culinary heritage, it is essential to approach them with caution, considering their potential health implications.
By embracing culinary diversity while prioritizing nutritional balance, we Indonesians can continue to enjoy our rich culinary traditions while safeguarding our health and wellbeing. With concerted efforts from individuals, communities and policymakers, we can address health disparities and create a brighter, healthier future for generations to come.
Citra Hennida is a lecturer at the Department of International Relations, Airlangga University. Rizky Sugianto Putri is a lecturer at the university’s Department of Anthropology.