December 2, 2024
GIMPO – South Koreans can now sip their Starbucks while taking in the rarest of views — the shadowy realm of a forbidden land, North Korea.
At a just-opened store, with seating for around 40 patrons, the glass walls frame panoramic vistas of Kaepung-gun and Songaksan in the North Korean city of Kaesong.
It is located within the Jogang Observatory in the South Korean border city of Gimpo, part of the 154-meter-high Aegibong Peace Ecopark. This vantage point lies just 1.4 kilometers from the North, with the Jo River separating the two Koreas. Accessing the area requires passing the civilian checkpoint, and visitors must present ID to enter.
Baek Hye-soo, a Gimpo resident in her 40s, came early for a morning coffee on Friday, becoming the very first customer on its opening day.
“I feel like I could swim to the other side of the river between these two lands,” she said. “This isn’t just another Starbucks launch. It’s infused with a sense of historical weight.”
With a line of visitors waiting outside and baristas hustling to keep up with the demand, a family of three — parents in their 40s and their 7-year-old daughter — managed to snag a round table.
“It hits differently that my little daughter can see North Korea from such a familiar and comfortable place like Starbucks,” said the mother, surnamed Kim.
Visitors drink beverages at a Starbucks store located at the Jogang Observatory in Gimpo, north of Seoul, on Friday. PHOTO: THE KOREA HERALD
Few, if any, appreciate the new vantage point as poignantly as war veterans, who deeply understand the true cost of peace.
As a member of the Vietnam War veterans group in Gimpo, 82-year-old Bok Jin-sun lamented the reality of a divided peninsula, torn by a river “we cannot swim across.”
Another Vietnam veteran in his 80s remarked, “Nowhere else is a country divided like ours. It’s good that people can come here and drink coffee while looking out at North Korea.”
The Starbucks store’s opening ceremony was attended by Gimpo city officials, including Mayor Kim Byung-soo.
“(We hope that) Starbucks’ powerful brand will help position the observatory as a global destination that symbolizes national security and peace,” Mayor Kim said in his commemorative speech. “We hope to transform this place into a point of reflection where Koreans can physically witness the northern side and envision a peaceful future.”
To complement the new branch with its historical meaning, exclusive merchandise and special beverages have been prepared, in collaboration between the city and the coffee company, Kim said.
Visitors order coffee drinks at a Starbucks store located at the Jogang Observatory in Gimpo, north of Seoul, on Friday. PHOTO: THE KOREA HERALD
Since its reopening in 2021, following a four-year renovation, the Aegibong park, enriched with cultural and historical significance, welcomed over 200,000 visitors as of last year. While the observatory remains a major draw of the park, the ecopark also boasts peace- and future-themed exhibitions, an outdoor stage and a swing bridge.
Another notable monument is the 2-meter-tall Peace Bell. Crafted from spent cartridges collected at war sites and rusty wire salvaged from the fences of the Demilitarized Zone, it stands as a reminder of the nation’s war history.
Accessing the park however, is not as straightforward as one might assume.
Visitors must fill out an entry form and undergo an identity check by the Korean Marine Corps, as the mountain park is situated within a 10-kilometer zone between the Civilian Control Line and the Military Demarcation Line.
Admission costs 3,000 won ($2.15) for adults, while children under 12 pay 1,000 won. Those who make online reservations in advance can bypass the on-site registration process.
Starbucks logo at the Jogang Observatory. PHOTO: THE KOREA HERALD