August 6, 2025
ISLAMABAD – Far from the narrow yet lively streets of Karachi’s Hyderabad Colony, a cultural hub where Hyderabadis (from Hyderabad Deccan) visit to buy achaar (pickle), savour traditional dishes from iconic caterers such as Abu Mian Cooking Corner, and get their sherwanis tailored to perfection, a new restaurant in Lahore has brought the unique taste of Deccan to the historical city.
Nestled in DHA Phase 1, Gadrung is a passion project of miniature artist Shireen Bano Rizvi, who has transformed her love for her Hyderabadi heritage into an immersive dining experience. Drawing on heirloom recipes from her Dadi Ammi, Rizvi crafts dishes seasoned in sarson ka tel (mustard oil) and rich desi ghee, slow cooked in copper pots and served in clay pots to honour her cultural roots.
“I truly believe in promoting our culture and remembering our forgotten heritage,” Rizvi told Images. Even the plates at Gadrung are of earthenware, and takeaways are given in clay pots.
The restaurant itself reflects Rizvi’s deeply personal aesthetics. Styled like an extension of her own dining room, it features wooden chairs and tables very similar to those at her house, and walls adorned with her miniature artwork and curated paintings. A particularly intimate touch is a mosaic table with a saxophone motif — a nod to her husband, a saxophone player.
The cuisine at Rizvi’s restaurant carries the familiar fragrance of quintessential Hyderabadi spices and seasonings such as curry leaves, tamarind, and papaya paste, yet it reflects her distinct family legacy, diverging gently from the traditional recipes followed by most Hyderabadis settled in Pakistan, including those of my family from Karachi.
The owner does say that not all dishes reflect her Hyderabadi roots, as some dishes are there because she enjoys making them, such as the Banana Bread, Laal Doshala (Potohari Patakha Chicken), Kabab Bun and Gurr Ka Paratha to name a few. “I didn’t want to restrict myself, I wanted to serve food which I really like and enjoy,” Rizvi explained.
Baingan ka Bhurta and Pappar with Aam Panna
For starters, Gadrung offers Baingan ka Bhurta (roasted eggplant mash). Priced at Rs450, the dish is reimagined as a dip paired with crunchy pappar and is perfect for nibbling on while you wait for the main course. The yoghurt base makes it appealing to anyone who enjoys creamy, flavour-packed starters.
Aam Panna, a drink made from raw mangoes, was served too. The refreshing concoction was exactly what you would hope for. It was the perfect thirst quencher for a hot (and humid) Lahori summer night. Many Hyderabadis refer to the drink as Aab Shola, and it delivers a delightful burst of sweet, spicy and sour all in one sip. It is, however, a seasonal drink. Price: Rs300.
Hyderabadi Platter
The main event from the main course was definitely the Hyderabadi Platter. Served on a stainless steel thaali, the platter contained staple dishes such as dum ka qeema, bhagaray tamatar, khatti daal, khattay aloo and rice. The qeema was smoky and the khatti daal perfectly tangy, but the standout was the bhagaray tamatar because of its all too familiar aroma and comforting taste. Priced at Rs2,700, the platter can be easily shared by two to three people.
We were also served pipping hot whole wheat paratha which was cooked in desi ghee, and became the perfect addition to enjoy with the qeema.
Hyderabadi Quorma Pullao
The Hyderabadi Quorma Pullao was very flavourful and delicious. Made with succulent chicken and seasoned with a fragrant blend of spices, the rice was perfectly cooked. The dish is paired with raita.
The inclusion of chicken pullao on the menu instead of the iconic Kachay Gosht ki Biryani — named so because the recipe includes slow cooking marinated raw meat with parboiled rice and aromatic spices in a sealed pot, a technique called dum —seemed like a bold choice, especially for an eatery serving Hyderabadi cuisine. But Rizvi explained that this is deliberate. “I’m only cooking and serving what was made in my family,” she said, adding that her family made pullao and its taste and recipe are more familiar to her. Priced at Rs1,600 for half and Rs3,000 for full, the half serving size is more than enough for two people.
Bhagaray Baingan and Mirchi Ka Salan
Gadrung’s menu also includes the two beloved Hyderabadi side dishes: Bhagaray Baingan and Mirchi Ka Salan. Traditionally, Mirchi Ka Salan in my family is prepared as a side dish to complement Hyderabadi biryani. But here, it takes centre stage, paired with tender mutton, transforming it into a standalone experience. It was priced at Rs2,300 for a half serving and Rs4,500 for a full serving.
The Bhagaray Baingan on the other hand was everything I was expecting it to be: aromatic, comforting and utterly satisfying. It was priced at Rs1,150 for a half serving and Rs2,300 for a full serving.
Laal Doshala (Potohari Patakha Chicken)
Rizvi had said that not every dish on the menu has Hyderabadi roots, and one such main dish is her Patakha Chicken. Her version of the dish from the Potohar region and often served in Nathiagali was fiery, and tantalising. She serves it with a generous portion of chilli oil, making it absolutely addictive. She also sells chilli oil separately for anyone looking for yummy homemade chilli oil in Lahore.
She reasoned that the decision to include this dish was simply to cater to the masses who might not be that familiar with Hyderabadi flavours, adding that this is one of her top running dishes. It’s priced at Rs990 for a quarter, Rs1,800 for half and Rs3,400 for a full portion.
Baked Beef Passanda Roll
This fun twist on a classic paratha roll was made by swapping the usual filling with beef passanda and it worked well. The tender, flavourful beef adds a richness to each bite. The dish is served with crispy potato wedges, and a tangy chutney to balance it out. While the serving size might seem modest at first glance, the roll is surprisingly filling and makes for a well-balanced, satisfying meal. It’s priced at Rs900.
Kiraam Ki Kheer
Rizvi’s kheer made of kiraam (breadcrumbs) is another delightful addition to the menu, especially for those who have a sweet tooth. Priced at Rs400, the serving is enough for two people.
Towards the end of our meal, we were served homemade green tea — a welcome surprise as most restaurants sell packaged green tea — and a nice warm cup of blended coffee with hints of cinnamon. The drinks menu also comprises many interesting and seasonal drinks, such as peach iced tea made with fresh peaches and Kashmiri Chai.
Speaking about her journey, Rizvi shared that she started last year in April but as a pop up. After receiving positive feedback, she gathered the courage to open a physical space for her food venture. She said she named the restaurant ‘Gadrung’ because it’s a term used in miniature painting which translates to being opaque. That’s something that resonates with her, both in her work and in her food.
Gadrung is open from 5pm to 12am.