May 19, 2025
BANGKOK – More than a place of worship, this over 150-year-old sanctuary is a living symbol of cultural identity, spiritual devotion, and a growing struggle against gentrification in the heart of the city.
Dedicated to Chao Mae Thapthim, or Mazu, the revered Chinese sea goddess, the shrine has long been a spiritual refuge for the Chinese-Thai community.
Believers come to pay respect to Mazu, who is known for offering blessings of safety, harmony and prosperity.
Beyond spiritual devotion, the shrine has also served as a social anchor, once offering shelter during the Second World War and now continuing as a place of gathering and tradition for generations.
What makes the shrine even more remarkable is its location on land owned by Chulalongkorn University, Thailand’s most prestigious academic institution. While the university has historically coexisted with the shrine, tensions have risen in recent years due to the university’s urban development plans.
Chulalongkorn University has proposed relocating the shrine near its Centenary Park, arguing that the move would preserve the site while allowing for land redevelopment.
However, the plan has sparked strong opposition. The shrine’s caretakers and local heritage activists argue that the proposed location is inappropriate, too far removed from the original community, lacking the spiritual atmosphere and essentially stripping the shrine of its historical context.
For many, the relocation would be more than just a change of address, it would represent the erasure of deeply rooted cultural memory.
The shrine’s plight has even inspired cinematic storytelling. It features prominently in the 2023 Thai film The Last Breath of Sam Yan, a dramatic retelling that sheds light on urban displacement, identity and the resilience of local heritage.
The film helped amplify the issue and brought national attention to the movement to save the shrine.
Visiting the Chao Mae Thapthim Shrine is both a spiritual experience and a cultural lesson. It’s open daily from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM, located within walking distance of Sam Yan MRT Station (Exit 2) or a short motorcycle ride from National Stadium BTS Station.
Despite its modest size, the shrine radiates a quiet dignity that stands in contrast to the high-rises slowly encroaching around it.
In a rapidly changing Bangkok, the shrine is more than a religious site, it’s a testament to the enduring power of community, faith and memory.
Whether you come to make an offering or simply to listen to the stories it holds, the Chao Mae Thapthim Shrine reminds us that some treasures are worth preserving, no matter the odds.