October 1, 2024
BANGKOK – Nakhon Pathom, a province in the outskirts of Bangkok, is historically significant, with roots tracing back to the Dvaravati era (6th century to the 11th century). It has long been a hub of trade, art, culture, and way of life. The province is also known for its rich culinary heritage, offering many traditional “local dishes” that have been passed down through generations.
Recently, the Department of Cultural Promotion released “The Lost Taste” project for fiscal year 2024. This initiative aims to gather and preserve local dishes from various regions across Thailand, emphasising the cultural value of traditional foods and detailing the history and preparation methods of each dish.
Among the highlights are the local dishes of Nakhon Pathom, which creatively use local ingredients to craft unique traditional menus.
Lotus Leaf-Wrapped Rice
Lotus leaf-wrapped rice is rooted in Chinese culinary traditions, where local ingredients like lotus leaves are used to wrap food, giving the dish its distinctive fragrance.
Jongdee Sethamnuay, a local leader of the agro-tourism group Rai Na Suan Phasom, has revived the dish, which was fading from the local food scene. Besides the delicious taste, the lotus leaves used to wrap the rice are organically grown, without chemicals, ensuring the safety of the leaves used in this traditional dish.
Pork Leg Curry with Ma Dan Leaves (and Coconut Husk)
This traditional recipe is now rare, possibly because of its complexity and the time required to source ingredients like young coconut husk, which was a clever adaptation by the ancestors to suit the times.
Radklao Meekul, the creator of the dish, explained that in the past, soft-shelled turtles were used in this curry. However, as times changed, coconut husk – a readily available local ingredient – was substituted to make the dish more accessible.
“In the past, soft-shelled turtles were plentiful and used in the curry, but as they became harder to find, young coconut husk was substituted,” Radklao said. “The curry also includes pork leg and ma-dan (Garcinia schomburgkiana pierre) leaves, which add a sour taste, replacing the sourness typical of tamarind.
“The flavour is well-balanced and not too greasy from the pork leg, though many from the younger generation are unfamiliar with this dish due to its complexity and time-consuming preparation.”
Rawaeng Curry
Rawaeng curry is an ancient Thai coconut curry that dates back to the Dvaravati period and is now quite rare. The name “rawaeng” is not originally Thai, as this dish was influenced by Javanese cuisine. The appearance of rawaeng curry resembles the more familiar panang curry, but instead of using red curry paste, it incorporates green curry paste.
Turmeric is also added, giving it a golden-yellow hue. The result is a dish that looks like a fusion of green curry and turmeric or curry powder-based dishes. Rawaeng curry is thicker than green curry but less creamy than panang curry, making it a hybrid between a stir-fry and a curry.
It is notable for its rich aroma and the flavour of lemongrass and various herbs, which are typical of traditional Thai curries. It’s believed that rawaeng curry originated from the Javanese influence in southern Thailand, which shares cultural similarities with Indonesia. This has led to speculation about whether rawaeng curry is actually Thai green curry or Indonesian curry, which is how it earned its name “rawaeng”, meaning suspicion or uncertainty.
Chun Pia
Chun pia is a traditional Teochew Chinese snack that has been passed down through generations. It is a reflection of the cultural heritage of overseas Chinese, particularly in the Bang Luang Market in Nakhon Pathom, where it has been enjoyed for many years. This snack represents the harmonious blend of Thai and Chinese cultures, stemming from Chinese immigrants who settled in the area.
Today, chun pia is rare, as few people know how to make it. However, it can still be found at Bang Luang Market, where “Ama Iam” (Iam Sae-Hueng) has been making and selling this snack for more than 50 years. It remains a popular delicacy in this 100-year-old market, and failing to taste it is considered a missed opportunity for visitors.
Bamboo Shoot and Lotus Stem
This local dessert comes from the Ban Song Hong community, where it has been passed down from grandparents to the younger generations. It showcases the wisdom of using locally grown plants, such as bamboo shoots and lotus stems, to create sweet treats. In the past, families would prepare their own sweets, as they were not readily available like today.
Both bamboo shoots and lotus stems are known for their medicinal properties. Bamboo shoots help regulate the intestines and lower cholesterol, while lotus stems help reduce fever, clear phlegm, relieve thirst, and rejuvenate the heart.
In ancient times, these ingredients were made into a dessert that was both nutritious and appealing to children. While most people use them in savoury dishes like bamboo shoot curry or stir-fried lotus stems, few realise they can also be made into sweet dishes. Bamboo shoots and lotus stems are naturally pesticide-free and available year-around.
Khi Nu Palm Sugar
This dessert is rare and difficult to find because it requires palm-sugar pulp, which is only available during the rainy season. As a result, khi nu palm sugar dessert is seasonal and challenging to source.
The dessert is primarily made from rice flour and palm-sugar pulp, and its texture resembles sand grains, which has led some people to call it “sand dessert”. Others call it “khi nu”, (rat droppings) and while it seems difficult to make, it is actually not too complicated.