December 10, 2024
MANILA – Melbourne is at the tail end of spring during the soft opening of Inuman, the latest venue helmed by the folks behind Filipino fine dining force Askal.
Situated just three stories above the restaurant, its rooftop location offers pristine views of the city’s theater district. A breeze travels effortlessly through the venue to keep guests cool. During the day, the sun pours delicately over the balcony, making it the ideal place to lounge after a long day in front of a desk. Come nighttime, bistro lights trail through the space while the city illuminates the background. In Filipino, you would describe the place as “presko” (“fresh”).
It isn’t hard to see how Inuman perfectly caters to the curious palates of Melburnians. It ticks all the boxes. From the menu to the interiors, the bar embodies the eclecticism the city is known for.
File photo of the bar at Inuman. PHOTO: PHILIPPINE DAILY INQUIRER
A young calamansi tree is positioned by the outdoor seating area of Inuman. It overlooks guests as they mingle and sip on cocktails. A citrus fruit native to the Philippines, the tree favors warm subtropical temperatures to grow but can withstand the cold if cared for adequately. Upon learning this, I couldn’t help but strike a parallel between the calamansi tree to the experience of Filipino migrants. Similar to the calamansi tree, many of those in the community have had to grow through discomfort, holding on to pieces of home for warmth, connection, and sometimes even sanity. Through it all, food and drink have always been a universal connector for the community.
On the menu
According to Inuman co-owner and beverage director Ralph Libo-On, his approach to crafting the menu was centered around the mission to appeal to different demographics while staying true to his migrant roots.
“The menu stands out because it incorporates unique Filipino and Kiwi ingredients with twists on classic cocktails,” he says. For example, the Tito Ray cocktail, which emulates the flavors of a classic Mai Tai, includes durian. “It was named after a historical Filipino legend named Ray Buhen, who was a pioneer in the tropical “Tiki” cocktail phase of the 1930s.”
Another item on the menu, the Boba Blind Pig, is a drink Libo-on describes as a “boozy ube boba milk tea that draws inspiration from the American Prohibition era in the 1920s, an integral part of cocktail history.”
The Sari-Sari Sparkle. PHOTO: PHILIPPINE DAILY INQUIRER
The Sari-Sari Sparkle, which features lemongrass gin, ‘feijoa burst,’ gumamela hibiscus, and spice-aged bitters, is served in a glass molded to the shape of a gripped plastic bag they’d typically serve in a neighborhood store.
When it comes to food, Askal culinary director and co-owner John Rivera elevates your typical pulutan, reimagining it with more balance in keeping with Libo-On’s approach. Boy Bawang served with a salt and vinegar saltbush makes for a nostalgic yet contemporary take on a childhood favorite. Other bites such as the chicken ‘skinato’ sandwich incorporate chicken skin, a street food staple.
Boy Bawang with a salt and vinegar saltbush. PHOTO: PHILIPPINE DAILY INQUIRER
On finding balance
While emboldened by their shared experiences from starting Askal, Libo-on explains to LIFESTYLE.INQ that crafting Inuman’s menu did not come without challenges.
“The most challenging part was finding the balance of pleasing everyone with an approachable menu while staying true to myself,” Libo-on notes. “We [bartenders] get caught up creating drinks that cater to hard-drinking fellow bartenders when really, loyalty is found in the way we cater for the masses.”
Through it all, Libo-on relishes Inuman’s journey, sharing how gaining regulars has been the most rewarding aspect of it all. “When I see people come back, I know we’re doing something right.”
The Tito Ray. PHOTO: PHILIPPINE DAILY INQUIRER
On the design
Playful and unique, Inuman’s exceptional menu is complemented by its take on contemporary cultural design that revolves around Filipino elegance and sophistication. “The primary inspiration was the traditional terno, so cocktail elegant,” says Michael Mabuti, Inuman’s co-owner and builder, who fitted out the space together with architect Stefan Bagnoli of Bagnoli Architects who oversaw the design.
“This is reflected in the curtain fabric and from the large arch over the doors. The mirrored walls refer to the capiz sequences used in the decoration of the traditional garments.”
Crispy Chicken ‘Skinato’ Sandwich. PHOTO: PHILIPPINE DAILY INQUIRER
Natural elements are incorporated into the space as well. The bar’s cherry red marble countertop ties the entire space together, creating a laid-back yet polished look. For the outdoor area, pops of color find their way into the side tables and loungers. “It references the coastal vibe of a Philippine resort, lounging by the pool, etc.,” Mabuti shares.
On the message Inuman hopes to convey
Whether you’re an immigrant yearning for a connection to home or a local exploring the city’s ever-changing drinking scene, Inuman lightheartedly draws on distinct elements of Filipino culture and marries it with a confident Australian flair.
When asked about what message he hopes Inuman conveys to guests, Libo-on shares: “Australia and the Philippines have a drinking culture that revolves around togetherness and good times. I hope Inuman continues to draw in people from all cultures and walks of life to experience Filipino flavors through the consumption of alcoholic beverages.”
Inuman is located on the third level of 167 Exhibition Street, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia 3000. To learn more, visit https://www.inumanmelbourne.com/